Barrys-Classic-Cars

Performance Building My 78 MGB

 

Enhancements - What I Did to the Engine

Internal Engine Enhancements: 

 

  • Stripped the engine down to the bare block
  • Bored it .020 to clean up the cylinders
  • Replaced ALL fasteners with 190,000 psi racing bolts & studs
  • Put in 190,000 psi racing lifters, push rods, piston rods, etc.
  • Used 190,000 psi racing bearings for the crank and the cam
  • Had the crankshaft and all other internal components balanced
  • Installed high performance, high compression pistons (more power)
  • Installed high performance racing oil pump
  • Installed high performance racing water pump
  • Installed an MSX high performance street cam (gives great performance without the lurching and shaking at stop lights)

External Engine Enhancements: 

 

  • Added a racing harmonic balancer
  • Had the flywheel balanced
  • Installed a racing type fuel filter which filters down to 5 microns (just in case I have condensation-related corrosion in the fuel tank at some point down the line)
  • Purely for aesthetic purposes, color coordinated all the paint on the engine compartment, alternator, starter, cold air intake box side plate, exhaust header cooler side plate, etc.
  • Again, for aesthetic reasons, put stainless sleeves on all hoses

Rocker & Head Enhancements:

 

  • Replaced the rocker arm assembly with high performance Harland Sharp roller rockers (better timing of valve opening & closing and they never wear out)
  • Added a rocker oiler through the valve cover
  • Installed an aluminum high dome valve cover for improved heat dissipation – and hand-painted the area between the top ribs and the recessed areas of the MG Logo in red

Carburetion & Air Intake Enhancements:

 

  • Converted to dual Weber DCOE 45 carbs (these are what are typically used when racing MGB’s)
  • Custom-built fuel drip pans to divert any gas drips out and back from wiring towards the space between the firewall and the transmission
  • Relocated the coil away from the carbs so fuel drips couldn’t start fires
  • Installed a cold air intake system, using 2 ½” polished aluminum pipes which are routed down below the car to “ram” cooler air into the air box that covers the carb intake rams – the pipes have small 2.25" high-volume fans that are switched to come on when the car is sitting still; this system  increases horsepower by 5 to 15%
  • Used dual massive conical air filters for maximum filtration
  • Inserted 2.25" high-volume switched fans into the cold air pipes to supply sufficient air volume when the car isn't moving

Lubrication Enhancements:

 

  • Relocated the oil filter up to near the radiator overflow tank (otherwise, I would’ve had to remove both carbs every time I changed oil)
  • Upgraded to a 19 row oil cooler (cools the oil better than the standard 9 to 13 row units that were standard)
  • Installed an oil thermostat (keeps the oil in the engine until it warms up and minimizes wear on the engine from cold oil)

Exhaust Flow Enhancements:

 

  • Installed a Monza flow-through exhaust system which has bigger diameter pipes and a header that get the gases down faster (increases horsepower by 5 to 10%)

Engine Compartment Cooling Enhancements:

 

  • Modified the radiator fans to be separately switched so that only one comes on when needed and the second switches on when more air movement is needed
  • Wrapped the Monza header in insulating tape – keeps the engine compartment cooler and speeds up the flow of gases down the exhaust system
  • Installed an exhaust cooling system which operates similar to the cold air intake system by ramming cold air in thorugh scoops below the radiator and carrying it up to the header, removeing engine heat more rapidly
  • Installed auto-switched high-volume fans (two 2.25", one 5", and one 7.5" totalling about 500 cfm) to move air across the header and remove it from the engine compartment when the car isn't moving

 Electrical System Enhancements: 

  • Relocated the wiring higher on the passenger side of the engine compartment (like early B's) to be out of the way of being fried in case of backfires
  • Mostly for aesthetic reasons, rewrapped the wiring harness in the original blue tape
  • Moved the fuse box to an under-dash location to eliminate road grit from making bad connections (and to eliminate the 30 minute job of removing the cold air box just to check a fuse)
  • Added an auxiliary fuse box for cockpit extras

Other Enhancements:

  • For purely aesthetic purposes, I swapped out my RoStyle wheels for Minator spokes (similar to Minilites, but a lighter silver) – I even hand-painted my new “MG Logo” valve stem caps with red down in the recessed areas
  • While I had the engine out, I swapped out my perfectly good transmission for an overdrive unit

Incremental Small Improvements Make a BIG Difference! 

 

Regarding performance, every little thing makes a difference – 5% here, 10% there… 5 horsepower here, 10 horsepower there. 

 

The Overdrive Makes a Huge Difference: 

 

Also, the overdrive helps preserve the engine for when you don’t need the power, while saving gas significantly at cruising speeds. 

 

A standard transmission in fourth gear reads 9 mph per 500 rpm's or 18 mph per 1000 rpm's. 

 

Thus, 2,000 rpm's = 36 mph

2,500 rpm's = 45 mph

3,000 rpm's = 54 mph

3,500 rpm's = 63 mph

4,000 rpm's = 72 mph; and

4,500 rpm's = 81 mph...

 

you won't get a B too much higher than 85 unless it has an engine rebuilt for performance.

 

 

The OVERDRIVE transmission reads 11 mph per 500 rpm's or 22 mph per 1000 rpm's.

 

Thus, 2,000 rpm's = 44 mph

2,500 rpm's = 55 mph

3,000 rpm's = 66 mph

3,500 rpm's = 77 mph

4,000 rpm's = 88 mph

4,500 rpm's = 99 mph; and

5,000 rpm’s = 110 mph…

 

easy to do with a performance rebuild.

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